Beef Tenderloin in Caramelized Sugar
Source of Recipe
e-cookbooks.net
Recipe Introduction
The flavor and texture of sugar undergoes a dramatic change when it is caramelized, or cooked until liquid. You see this cooking technique a lot in Vietnam, where caramelized sugar is the basis for a savory sauce used in dishes made with pork, beef, shrimp, finfish, chicken and even frog.
The sauce includes nam pla, the fish sauce (called nuoc mam in Vietnam) that is one of Southeast Asia's distinguishing flavors. It is completed by plenty of onions and black pepper. The result is wickedly forceful, decidedly delicious and, in the sauce's dark brown glossiness, downright gorgeous.
The only trick lies in caramelizing properly. Though some cooks recommend adding a little water to the sugar before heating it to slow down the process and avoid burning the sugar, I find that careful attention and moderate heat work equally well. (It's easiest
to melt sugar in a saucepan, but here the sugar is added to the same skillet in which you have browned the beef, so you must be especially attentive.)
As the sugar begins to melt, shake the skillet gently a few times, but do not stir. The sugar will quickly become a golden brown liquid.
This is the stage at which it is best for desserts. For savory dishes, however, it's important to cook it a little longer, so that the caramel takes on a distinctive bitterness.
After the caramel has cooled a bit, add the liquid, which should be done with care because some spattering is possible. The cold liquid will cause the caramel to harden, but added heat and a little stirring dissolve it, and at that point the challenges are behind you. Cook some onions in the sauce, then finish the browned meat by
turning it in the liquid a few times, and you're done.
I think caramelizing is a great stage for beef tenderloin,
especially the one-inch-plus steaks called filet mignon. This cut is
lean and supertender, it browns beautifully and evenly, and, because
of its uniform shape, thickness and meatiness (there is little
surface fat) it cooks to a nice stage of doneness without much fuss.
The knock on filet mignon is that it is bland, and that's true. But
the flavor of any meat, aside from wild game, will succumb to this
sauce.
--- Mark Bittman
List of Ingredients
4 pieces filet mignon, each 1 inch thick
1 cup sugar
1/2 cup nam pla, or to taste
1 large onion, cut in half-moon slices
1 teaspoon black pepper, or to taste
Recipe
1. Put a 10-inch skillet over high heat. Wait a minute. Add meat, and brown on both sides. Turn off heat, and place steaks on plate.
2. A minute later, add sugar to pan, and turn heat to medium. Cook, gently shaking pan, until sugar liquefies and begins to bubble. Cook another minute until it darkens, then turn off heat. Mix nam pla with 1/2 cup water. Carefully add liquid, and turn heat to medium-high. Cook, stirring constantly, until caramel melts into liquid. Add onions, and cook, stirring, about 5 minutes. Stir in any liquid that has accumulated around meat.
3. Stir in black pepper, and return meat to pan. Cook over medium heat, turning meat once in a while, until it is done to your liking (about 5 to 8 minutes for medium-rare). Taste, and adjust seasoning, then serve, spooning onions and sauce over each steak.
YIELD: 4 Servings
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