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FRUIT PASTE CANDIES (DULCE DE FRUTA

List of Ingredients

About 4 cups fruit pulp (see Variations below)
About 4 cups sugar
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Confectioners' or granulated sugar for coating (optional


Recipe

Sephardim enjoy these confections on special occasions, especially Rosh Hashannah and Passover. Almost any fruit can be used in this process, but hard fruits require cooking and dried ones soaking. Although fruit is naturally sweet, the sugar in this recipe contributes additional sweetness and also intensifies the flavors, contributes body (so that the paste can be cut into shapes), and acts as a preservative.

1. Measure the fruit pulp and place in a heavy medium nonreactive saucepan (do not use iron, copper, or brass). Add 1 cup sugar for each cup of pulp. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to low, and simmer, stirring frequently, until the mixture thickens and sputters, 30 to 50 minutes. Add the lemon juice and cook, stirring for 2 minutes.

2. Spread the fruit paste over a greased 13-by-9-inch baking pan or on a baking sheet to a 1-inch thickness. Let cool, then cut into squares or diamonds. Or form the warm fruit paste into 1-inch balls and, if desired, press a walnut half or blanched almond into each ball. Cover with waxed paper and let stand at room temperature overnight. If desired, dredge the candies in confectioners' or granulated sugar to coat. This helps to keep the candies from sticking together. Store between sheets of waxed paper in an airtight container at room temperature.

VARIATIONS

Fruit and Almond Candies: Scatter 1 cup ground blanched almonds in a 13-by-9-inch baking pan or on a baking sheet, spread the fruit paste on top, and sprinkle another 1 cup ground almonds over the fruit paste.

Dulce de Mansana (Sephardic Apple Candies): Cook 3 pounds (10 to 12 medium) coarsely chopped tart apples in 1 1/2 cups apple cider or water over medium heat until tender, 20 to 40 minutes. Drain and let cool. Press through a food mill or strainer. Or use 4 cups unsweetened applesauce.

Dulce de Cayeci (Sephardic Apricot Candies): Soak 1 pound (about 3 1/4 cups) dried apricots in water to cover for at least 2 hours or overnight. Drain, reserving 1 cup of the soaking liquid. In a food processor or food mill, purée the apricots. Add the reserved soaking liquid.

Dulce de Moras (Sephardic Berry Candies): Purée and strain 2 pounds (about 7 cups) stemmed blackberries, mulberries, or raspberries. Add 1 cup water.

Amsath (Indian Mango Candies): This Indian adaptation of the Middle Eastern confection is called kamrooden in Calcutta. Use 4 cups strained mango pulp (about 4 pounds or 8 medium mangoes).

Dulce de Shiftili (Sephardic Peach Candies): Halve and pit 2 pounds fresh peaches or apricots. Poach in boiling water for 15 minutes. Drain, peel, and purée. If desired, stir 1 teaspoon almond extract into the thickened paste.

Dulce de Peras (Sephardic Pear Candies): Cook 3 pounds peeled, cored, and chopped pears in 1 1/2 cups water over medium heat until tender, about 30 minutes. Drain and let cool. In a food processor or food mill, purée the pulp.

Dulce do Bimbriyo (Sephardic Quince Candies): Among Greek, Syrian, and Iraqi communities, quince preserves (kylthoni glyko) and candied quinces are served on Rosh Hashannah and Passover. Peel and slice 3 pounds (about 8 medium) hard and slightly unripe quinces. Cook in 1 1/2 cups water over medium heat until tender, about 30 minutes. Drain and let cool. Mash the pulp and press through a strainer.

Dulce de Bimbriyo y Mansana (Sephardic Quince and Apple Candies): Cook 2 pounds peeled and chopped quinces and 1 pound peeled, cored, and chopped apples in 1 1/2 cups water over medium heat until tender, about 30 minutes. Drain and let cool. In a food processor or food mill, purée the pulp.

Makes about twenty-nine 1-inch candies.