Salty soak gives chicken better flavor
Source of Recipe
Cook's Illustrated's
Recipe Link: www.cooksillustrated.com. Salting, or brining's, popularity has spread beyond the turkey.
At Thanksgiving, allowing the bird to swim in a salted-water solution for
hours was all the buzz. Consumers claimed that the moist, flavorful results
spoke for themselves.
Now, with the February issue of Cook's Illustrated, brining is returning to
the forefront, this time in the preparation of chicken.
In fact, the magazine concluded that home-brining brands of chicken that are
not among the most flavorful or of superior quality can turn the poultry
into a more acceptable product.
None of this is a major surprise, just confirmation that my mother long has
been on the right track. While chicken doesn't end up soaking in salt water
in the refrigerator, salt water has always been part of the cleaning
preparation for birds in her kitchen.
Writer Raquel Pelzel put two and two together after researching Empire
Kosher chicken's processing method. Empire Kosher, which was deemed the most
highly recommended chicken in a taste test at the magazine, packs its
chicken in salt for one hour to remove any impurities and then rinses it in
cold spring water. Pelzel wondered whether using a brining process could
improve the quality of other chicken.
The results: Brining the second- and last-place birds resulted in improved
quality, especially for the last-place finisher.
To brine a 3 1/2- to 4-pound chicken, combine 1 gallon cold water, 1 cup
table salt or 2 cups kosher salt and 2 cups sugar in a large pot. Add the
chicken and let soak in the refrigerator for 3 1/2 to 4 hours -- about 1
hour per pound.
After roasting 3 1/2- to 4-pound broiler/fryers from nine widely available
brands, without additional seasonings, the 30-member tasting crew at Cook's
Illustrated evaluated the chicken for overall appearance and for the flavor
and texture of both white and dark meat.
In the end, Empire Kosher Broiler Chicken from Pennsylvania wound up the
most highly recommended product. The last time the staff did a chicken
tasting in 1994, the Empire chicken was runner-up, and Bell & Evans Fresh
Young Chicken took top honors. This time, the results rated a switch, with
Empire edging out the competitor, which still rated a recommendation,
followed by the Tyson brand, which reportedly retails for $1 a pound less
than the front runners.
Readers can get a free look at the magazine's taste test at
www.cooksillustrated.com.
Inspired to taste-test Cook's Illustrated's top choice, I discovered at
least a couple of brands at three local outlets, Atlas Super Market, 5411 N.
College Ave., and the two Trader Joe's stores on the Far Northside. The
taste appeal of the Empire brand was even confirmed by the check-out
cashier. When those at the register seem to know their products -- which is
relatively rare -- it's generally a good idea to listen.
I've put the chicken to the test in only one recipe thus far, but the
skinless, boneless breast meat earned a thumbs up. Further confirmation has
come from a fellow home cook with a penchant for chicken that really tastes
like chicken. You know -- like it used to.
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