Here's an elegant but easy dessert from a wonderful new cookbook, Home Cooking Around the World by David Ricketts (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, $35). Its basic idea is clever -- taking "comfort" foods on a global tour and showing what other cultures do with similar ingredients but different seasonings. For instance, Ricketts uses the sugary heat of candied ginger to play flavor against flavor with the sweet-tart fruit and creamy creme fraiche. A dish that would be perfect for your next dinner party