Oysters Rockefeller were created in New Orleans at Antoine's in the 1880s by Jules Alciatore, son of founder Antoine Alciatore. The story is that a luncheon party asked to have an appetizer added to its menu. Jules saw some leftover relish trays in the kitchen and ordered a sauce to be made from them and baked over oysters. The name is a reference to the richness and green color of both the dish and the fortune of oil magnate John D. Rockefeller.
Antoine's has never divulged the recipe for their Rockefellers, which are completely different from almost all others in containing no spinach. The following recipe grew out of a great familiarity with the dish, a little sleuthing, and about fifty trials.
Ingredients:
Four dozen oysters
Water from oysters, plus enough more water to make two cups
2 cups chopped celery
1½ cups chopped green onion tops
2 cups chopped parsley, stems removed
1 cup chopped fresh fennel
1 cup chopped watercress
½ tsp. chopped fresh garlic
3 anchovy fillets
1 tsp. sugar
¼ cup catsup
1 tsp. salt
½ tsp. cayenne
1 tsp. white pepper
1 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce
2 dashes Peychaud's bitters
2 drops green food coloring (optional but authentic)
2 sticks butter
1 cup flour
1½ cups very fine fresh bread crumbs
Recipe
1. Combine the vegetables and the anchovies in small batches and chop to a near-puree in a food processor, using the oyster water to help things along.
2. Combine this green slurry and the rest of the oyster water in a saucepan and cook over low heat, stirring every now and then, until the excess water is gone but the greens remain very moist. Add sugar, catsup, salt, cayenne, Worcestershire sauce, bitters and food coloring.
3. Make a very light roux with the butter and flour. Blend well into the greens, until the sauce takes on a different, lighter texture. Then mix in the bread crumbs.
4. Place large, fresh oysters into oyster shells, small oven-proof ramekins, or small au gratin dishes. Top each oyster with a generous tablespoon of sauce (or more, if you like). Bake 15 minutes in a preheated 450-degree oven, or until the top of the sauce has barely begun to brown. Serve immediately. (If using oyster shells, serve on a bed of rock salt or on a napkin to keep shells from rocking.)